Yearly Archives: 2015

A few notes from the road…..I’m on the east coast now and security has beefed considerably….

Welcome back. In the United States we are fortunate to have a set of interconnecting highways that make it possible to travel from coast to coast. Keeping these roads in good shape is a dangerous job and as I drove to the east coast over the past four days watching out for these highway workers was my first priority.

When I got on I- 44 in Vinita, Oklahoma I hit my first of many toll. From there I headed to Joplin, Missouri and then on through Springfield to St. Louis. The roads were all good and motels and hotels were plentiful. In St. Louis I passed by the famous Gateway Arch. Completed in 1965 the 630 foot stainless steel arch is the tallest monument in the western hemisphere. The arch was designed as a permanent public memorial to those who made the western expansion of the United States possible including President Jefferson and the explorers Lewis & Clark. The arch is also the largest accessible structure in Missouri and visitors can take an elevator to the top for an incredible view of the city.

Outside St. Louis I picked up I-70 toward Terre Haute, Indiana which is home to a federal penitentiary which has a special confinement unit where male federal prisoners who have been condemned to death are housed.  This is where Timothy McVeigh and many other notorious federal prisoners took their last breath. From there it was on to Indianapolis and then Richmond before crossing the state line into Ohio. I-70 passes the outskirts of Dayton and Columbus before taking you into Wheeling, West Virginia. All along the way into Pennsylvania I noticed lots of opportunities for camping.

Outside of Pittsburgh my route took me north on I-79 to I-80 and this part of the drive starts many miles of rolling hills and forests. This part of the country is sparsely populated and most hotel rooms fill up quickly so it’s best to plan ahead for overnight accommodations.

Once you get to the Pennsylvania/ New Jersey border it’s not long before you can see the New York City skyline. If you’re traveling at night the sky will be filled with the glow from Manhattan when the 8.46 million residents of this metropolis turn on their lights.

However in this case I took a highway around the city, heading for the north shore of Long Island Sound where I’ve been invited to speak about my book Footprints in the Dew. The shoreline towns here were settled in the1600s and many of them played a role in the revolutionary war so there are numerous historical sites and monuments in the area that are always of interest to a history buff like me.

This is where I am sitting today but tomorrow I hope to renew my acquaintances from the summer of 2014. Matt Lauer, yes I talked to him and Al Roker several times about Oklahoma. Rikki Klieman, wife of NYC Police Commissioner Bill Bratton, is another person I have been lucky enough to visit with on several occasions about our state and my project. Not to forget my friend Robert Wyatt, a transplanted Okie himself and now a retired publishing executive and author. There are lots of people to see and over the next three weeks I’ll keep you up to date on what I get into so till next time I’ll see ya down the road………………………..

I’m headed east to promote Footprints in the Dew and will be sending a report back soon!

Welcome back. The many museums I come across in my travels, like the National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum in Oklahoma City, give me plenty to write about but I’ve also found that the small town museums are just as full of inspiring stories. This past week the Osage County History Museum in Pawhuska turned out to be a great example. The museum has just reopened after a fire and it is filled with photos from the past.  The collection also including many artifacts, paintings and even a library of historical books and documents.  The museum is housed in a former train station and the building and grounds are beautifully maintained by a group of dedicated volunteers working together to preserve the history of Osage County. This is a true gem and a must visit when you are in Pawhuska.

Last Saturday I also had the opportunity to be in Independence, Kansas and I wasn’t alone as officials estimated that 30,000 to 35,000 people attended this party. It’s called Neewollah which is Halloween spelled backwards. This event is held ever Halloween weekend and it’s a street party like a street party is supposed to be with giant Ferris wheels, lots of food and craft vendors, and a 2 hour parade that included at least 15 marching bands. There were also representatives from the armed forces and animals of every kind. Thousands of people sat in rows eight deep to watch the parade and everyone was having a great time, all on the streets of Independence.

The Oak Ridge Boys were the main musical attraction that night but there were plenty of other groups playing on the outdoor stage throughout the day and into the evening. Parking was at a premium but there were plenty of police and volunteers to help you out and I found a spot fairly easily even with the motorhome. Neewollah, I think I’ll go again next year and you should check it out too.

As I’m currently traveling across the country to a location that I will tell you more about next week, I thought I’d bring you up to date on northern New Mexico as the ski areas in Angel Fire and Red River get ready to open up. These are the closest ski areas to Oklahoma and I’ve written a lot about both of these family friendly resorts in the past. Even if you don’t ski there’s plenty to do and the mountains are breathtaking in the winter. Wildlife is also plentiful and you can expect to see elk, deer and even bears in the area.

Taos is close by and it is the site of one of America’s earliest human settlements, the Taos pueblo which is still inhabited. There are many other attractions here as well, too numerous to mention. Of course Philmont Scout Ranch is in this region too and if you are a regular reader you know it is one of my favorite places. Although there are no scouts at the ranch this time of year, it is still open to visitors and you can tour Waite Phillips’ mansion there every day except Christmas. It’s a great time of year to visit and room rates at the famous St. James Hotel in Cimarron are about half price. It’s quite a deal, you can enjoy all the area has to offer and sleep in a museum of western history at night. The hotel also has a top shelf restaurant with great food and service. I’m planning to head that way for New Year’s and I hope to see you there. Watch my website for more details and pricing.

I’ll end this week with a “job well done” to my daughter Loretta who held a creative and successful fundraiser offering people a professional photo of their child in their Halloween costume in exchange for 3 items of canned food. Over 200 cans were donated to the Lighthouse Mission for their meal program. As the holidays draw closer, please remember those who are less fortunate.

Till next time I’ll see ya down the road………………………..

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Another thanks to all who have supported Footprints in the Dew! I am excited to announce that the book is going into a second printing and I will be starting a new round of book signings in December!

Welcome back. “End of the Trail” is a phrase that is widely used by many people, including myself. The sculpture entitled “End of the Trail” is also very well known, depicting an Indian with a spear under his arm, head down and apparently about to give out sitting on an equally exhausted horse. I have seen many reproductions of this image in photographs and on printed materials and I have wondered where this very symbolic piece of American art came from. I discovered that the answer is sitting right here in Oklahoma at the National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum. This exhibit will be ending soon and it is well worth a trip to Oklahoma City so let me give you a preview.

The original sculpture was created by artist James Earl Fraser (1876-1953) to depict the suffering of American Indians as they were pushed off their homelands and moved westward. The sculpture was first exhibited at the 1915 Panama Pacific International Exposition in San Francisco and today it is dramatically displayed in the entryway of the Western Heritage Museum. James Earl Fraser won several prizes for his creation including first prize at an art show in Paris, France in 1898 and “End of the Trail” was prominently displayed outside the main entrance to the “Hall of Flowers” where thousands of people came to see the famous Indian astride his horse.

In its 100 year history, “End of the Trail” has not always been so well cared for. After the 1915 exposition, the sculpture was purchased by the city of Visalia, California and moved to a public park there where it was mostly forgotten for 50 years. The sculpture suffered from exposure to the weather and was painted over several times before finally being sold for scrap to a graveyard for old statues.

By1968 the sculpture had been cut into three pieces and it looked like the end of the trail for the “End of the Trail.” Beat up by the weather, with holes throughout and broken legs, the sculpture was saved at the 11^th hour by a group of visionaries from the Cowboy Hall of Fame (now The Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum) who purchased and restored it.

The story of this restoration is told in detail with photos and films in the exhibit. Then you have a chance to sit in the entryway and gaze at the sculpture itself. It’s an Oklahoma story for sure. If you happen to look through the enormous floor to ceiling glass windows in the room, you may notice a courtyard with several bronze statues outside. This my friends is the gateway to a graveyard like none other where the deceased have names like Steamboat, Baby Doll, Poker Chip and Midnight. One of the most famous is Tornado and you may have heard his story. At 1500 pounds, half Brahma, half Hereford with a red and white face, Tornado was a super star in the rodeo world. This bull threw off 220 professional riders before Freckles Brown finally rode him at the 1967 National Finals Rodeo in Oklahoma City. It has been written that no one who was there will ever forget it.

Tornado died of natural causes in 1972 at owner Jim Shoulders’ ranch. Shoulders, who was a rodeo legend in his own right, brought the bull to the museum where it was buried with the other legends in one of the most unusual cemeteries you will ever visit.

This past week I also got the chance to visit Pryor, Oklahoma where just like in the old days there is still a mom and pop bookstore called the Bible Book Store and Book Exchange. Pryor is another town that is rich in Oklahoma history and I am sure a return trip is in my future.

Till next time, I’ll see ya down the road…..

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A few thoughts from my travels……………………………..

Welcome back. Traveling down the road near or far, a person finds many interesting subjects to look at, or in my case write about. Starting near in Tulsa at Oklahoma State University’s Central Campus as it is called has been a real treat for me during the past four weeks. It wasn’t that long ago that this area of downtown Tulsa was rough. Many houses had seen better days and it wasn’t an attractive area to visit but all that has changed now. Today the historical buildings are still standing, all updated and full of tenants. The Baseball Park and restaurants are full and the new Woody Guthrie Museum has become a major draw. This bustling part of town is less than an hour from Bartlesville and well worth a visit. Even closer to home is Caney, Kansas, a small town full of friendly folks with a rich history. The historical center on Main Street is a must see to get the feel of this community.

Ponca City was the next stop for me on Friday night. I’ve written about this town before and I don’t know what it is but whenever you visit the people here make you right at home. There are several outstanding museums in town including an oil baron’s mansion (The Marland Mansion) and the 101 Ranch Museum dedicated to one of the biggest and most successful ranches ever. Ponca City also offers plenty of shopping and restaurants so there is something for everyone. It’s a bit of drive but I found plenty of reasonably priced hotels and motels, some of which date from the oil boom but have been completely restored keeping the flavor of that era. If you can plan to stay two or three days in order to see everything the town has to offer.

I was also in Owasso for a book signing this past weekend and the growth this city is going through is quite remarkable. New shopping centers seem to pop up overnight and there have to be at least a dozen golf courses in the area. If you’re looking for a different place to eat, Owasso has an eatery on every corner. It all makes for an entertaining day trip so if you haven’t been there lately, check it out.

I’ll end this week where I could have started, with a quote from the new book by my friend Minisa Crumbo:

“The old people say “it’s not whether you will do it but whether you will REMEMBER to do it.’ Spirit Talk helps us to remember AND to do… in a good way.”

I was lucky enough to catch a little of Minisa’s presentation this past week when she spoke on campus at OSU Tulsa.  A person who is deeply rooted in the Native American tradition, her speech was very captivating and created a special bond with the audience. The presentation was based on the ancient Medicine Wheel teachings which revolve around the cycles of the seasons. On November 6^th Minisa will be giving a full presentation at Gilgrease Museum at 12PM and it’s free. Here’s a little background information about a woman I think you will be hearing a lot of:

Minisa Crumbo Halsey is the daughter of the famed American Indian artist Woody Crumbo. Woody was a close friend and advisor of Thomas Gilgrease when he was putting his art collection together. The Crumbo painting “Deer and Birds” was also the first Indian painting in the Philbrook collection.

Minisa is also the wife of the renowned music impresario Jim Halsey and both Woody and Jim are in the Oklahoma Hall of Fame. An artist and a writer in her own right, Minisa’s most recent book Spirit Talk is getting a lot of attention around the country. If you can get to Gilgrease on November 6^th I guarantee you’ll come away with a new perspective on life.

As for me it’s nothing but highway so till next time, I’ll see ya down the road……

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I’ll be at the Book Exchange on N. Adair St. in Pryor from 1-3 today-Looking forward to meeting some new folks!

A few thoughts as I travel the state for book signings…

Welcome back. There ought to be a song about my travels last week. Down the road at Pittsburg, Kansas where the hometown mascot is the Pittsburg Gorilla. Then on to Tulsa where I lectured to the largest OLLI class ever. Asleep in Oklahoma City that night after listening to the magic chants of tribal Elders at an event in the Western Heritage Center, then up at dawn to Pawnee home to one of the greatest Wild West performers in American history. Dinner in Stillwater later at the city library with the cowboy faithful and then a late night rendezvous with the Eagles, one of the oldest service clubs in the nation. Throw in a little harmony, some guitar, get a good singer, give it to my friend Jim Halsey and you might just have a hit.

For me getting a chance to visit all these great places is always a hit so it’s a challenge to decide where to start this week. With both cowboys and New York City in my future plans I think I’ll begin with the story of one of the greatest western performers I know of who frequently appeared in New York City.

Gordon William Lillie was just a boy of 10 when he read Buffalo Bill Cody’s account of how he killed Sioux Indian Chief Tall Bull in a one on one battle to the death. That was 1869 and just a couple of years later Gordon got a chance to see his hero in person in Bloomington, Illinois where Bill was performing at an opera house in a show called “The Scouts of the Plains.” That was all it took and before long Gordon was westward bound where he eventually started his own Wild West show. He became known not as Gordon Lillie but as Pawnee Bill. The Pawnee Bill Wild West show traveled throughout the United States and Europe. In 1908 he and Buffalo Bill combined their shows and a year later the “Bills” as they were advertised, performed in Madison Square Garden. Gordon and his wife made their home in Pawnee, Oklahoma and today the property is maintained just as it was on February 3, 1942 when Pawnee Bill died on his beloved ranch at the age of 82. The house is a museum now and all the furnishings and fixtures as well as the outbuildings are still the same. There is also a herd of fancy longhorn cattle, and of course buffalo, roaming the grounds. If you’re interested in the old west, in my opinion it’s a must see in your lifetime.

After Pawnee was the town of Kiicawiuusi as it is called in the Pawnee language, or Stillwater to most of us. I spent the night here and found several tidbits of information which you may not know so here we go. The town was part of the first land run in 1889 and after settlement it became the center of Oklahoma Indian territory. The largest employer is Oklahoma State University and in 2010 Money Magazine listed Stillwater as one of the top 100 places to live in the country. Stillwater is also right in the middle of tornado alley, it is home to the National Wrestling Hall of Fame and it is considered to be a destination for tourists visiting Oklahoma. The Ponca, Kiowa, Osage and Pawnee all called the area still water because of the peaceful creek that flowed through but it’s not like that anymore! Another great place that I highly recommend.

I must also mention the Indian ceremony I attended last Tuesday night at the Western Heritage Center where I was privileged to be invited to attend an annual ceremony honoring an elder from each Indian tribe in Oklahoma. This year, my dear friend Coke Meyer who’s Cherokee was among the distinguished group of Native Elders recognized for their service to their tribes. The event was put together by AARP Oklahoma and there was dancing, good food and wonderful storytelling by an array of noted speakers. Quite an evening for a kid from Dewey, Oklahoma.

With the OSU lecture series going strong through the end of the month, then throw in numerous book signing engagements around the state I may just have another song for the flip side.

Till next time, I’ll see ya down the road…..

A few notes from my recent travels- stay tuned for my upcoming book signings and thanks again to everyone for your support!

Welcome back. I discovered some magic this week while traveling through southeastern Kansas in the middle Caney River Valley and since I am already planning a return trip in December, I thought I would start this week with a little history of the area. At 863 feet above sea level and sitting almost exactly in between New York and Los Angeles, Chautauqua County played an important role in the development of the west. The largest town in the county is Sedan which has a population of 1,174 and is the county seat. During a tour of the county museum History House I learned that Sedan was founded in 1871 and was named after the city of Sedan, France, supposedly because of the similarities in the rocky terrain of the two towns.

Sedan, France is a medieval era town in the northeast of the country, originally established in 1494. Today it is known for its enormous castle which covers 7 acres and encompasses 30,000 square feet on several levels. Each May Sedan holds a medieval festival celebrating the history of the town, much in the same way we have many celebrations of our western heritage here.

The History House in Sedan, Kansas is a very interesting place to visit and well worth the short drive from Bartlesville. There are exhibits about the founding and growth of the town, including the conflict that made Sedan the county seat as well as a large collection of genealogical information. Next weekend the Historical Society will put on their annual Heritage Quest at the Chautauqua County Fairgrounds in Sedan. Heritage Quest features demonstrations of pioneer skills and crafts, concessions, live music and a general store selling home baked cookies. Sounds like a great time for the whole family!

This past weekend I was also fortunate enough to catch a little of the Dalton Defender Days celebration in Coffeyville, Kansas. If you like top of the line fair food, this was the place to be! The streets were lined with great food trucks and other concessions. They also had non-stop live music, a big car show and an exciting re-enactment of the Dalton gang’s raid. With all the fun I had, I thought a little history of the town was due so here you go.

Coffeyville takes its name from James A. Coffey who established the town in 1869 as an Indian trading post. The town grew with the construction of a railhead and then the discovery of both natural gas and clay. From 1910 to the 1930s Coffeyville was one of the largest centers for glass and brick manufacturing in the country. Today it remains a lively community with much to offer both residents and visitors like me.

While I was exploring this part of the world I found out about another intriguing place to visit. Devil’s Canyon is a hidden place in Chautauqua County that is so deep that the trees growing at the bottom look miniature. It is difficult to scale the walls of the canyon to get down there but when you reach the bottom it becomes smooth and there is a large cave at one end. In the early days of statehood Devil’s Canyon was a favorite hideout for cattle and horse thieves due to the remoteness of the canyon and the natural springs which provide a year around source of water. Through the years, many visitors have carved their names into a large rock at the mouth of the canyon. If you are in shape for a hike this is a great destination and you can get directions from the Chautauqua County Historical Society.

Till next time I’ll see ya down the road……

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Please note that the date for my book signing at Jude’s in Bartlesville is this Saturday, October 10th- not the 11th

As promised, here are the dates and times for my talks and book signings in the upcoming week:

Monday, October 5th: Pittsburgh Public Library 6:30-8 PM

Wednesday, October 7th: Full Circle Books, Oklahoma City 6-8PM

Thursday, October 8th: The Buffalo Theater, Pawnee, OK at 11-2 PM  and the Stillwater Public Library 6-8PM

Saturday, October 10th: Jude’s in Bartlesville (next to Food Pyramid) 1-3PM

Thanks for everyone’s support. Those who have read the book tell me they have enjoyed it. Here’s one comment from a happy reader:

“Hi Dale, Finished reading your book, it was excellent! Very well written, should make a movie. I liked the way you jumped in and got the story.  Well worth the money! ” Kelley

A beautiful weekend in Dewey and a great event!

Welcome back. It was 1905 when Herbert Tyler and his son Donald rode the train to the Indian territory of northeastern Oklahoma looking for a site where they could build a cement plant. At the time they needed a source of natural gas for their plant was well as large amounts of limestone and shale or clay. All of these things were plentiful in Washington County and they found just what they needed a mile north of the small community of Dewey, Oklahoma.

In 1906 the Tylers purchased land from a Delaware Indian, arranged to have a four mile rail spur constructed near their property and drilled several natural gas wells to operate the machinery they brought in for the plant. The company was named the Dewey Portland Cement Company with Frank Tyler as President and Herbert Tyler as Manager of Construction and Operations. According to the Washington County Centennial History book, all the principal stockholders were family members and the main office was in Kansas City.

The first cement ever made in Oklahoma was manufactured at the Tylers’ plant in 1908. Just as a side note, this was also the first cement in the world ever stored in concrete silos. The silos at the Dewey Portland Cement Company stood for over 100 years northeast of Dewey and were a well-known landmark in the area until they were recently demolished.

Today Dewey has many other attractions which bring in visitors from around the world including the Tom Mix Museum and the historic Dewey Hotel. The main street through town is named for the Tyler family and it is full of great shops and restaurants. Dewey is also the place where Jacob M. Bartles started the famous Dewey Round-up in 1908, offering some of the richest prize money in the country for rodeo contestants and featuring big name Wild West Show performers like Annie Oakley and Buffalo Bill. Although we don’t have the Round-up anymore, the folks in Dewey are becoming pretty well known for their own event and are drawing crowds to town every September. The 11^th annual Western Heritage Days festival just concluded and organizers are saying they had the biggest crowds ever for two days of western style fun and activities. On Saturday things kicked off with a 5K through town to benefit the free mammogram program at Family Healthcare Clinic. Throughout the rest of the day there were historic re-enactments, a longhorn cattle drive, a great parade and many more goings on too numerous to list. There were plenty of vendors on hand as well with food and souvenirs.

On Sunday the action moved out to Ken and Marilyn Tate’s beautiful Prairie Song Village for a church service and breakfast followed by a big Wild West Show featuring trick riding, rodeo competitions and wrapping up with a performance by the world renowned One Armed Bandit, John Payne, and his family. I’ve caught his act several times at the big Denver Rodeo and Stock Show and it’s a real treat to see him in such a great setting so close to home.

If you missed Western Heritage Days this year, you definitely want to get it on your calendar for 2016 and in the meantime make sure to check out the downtown area, it’s well worth a stroll on a nice autumn day.

I’ll leave you this week with a quote from Tom Mix which was the theme for the weekend:

“The Old West is not a certain place in a certain time… It’s a state of mind. It’s whatever you want it to be.”

Till next time, I’ll see ya down the road……………………………..